Hawa Mahal, the glorious Palace of the Winds, built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh to enable the royal ladies to watch processions without being seen. It figures in all the brochures. It's not until you go there for real that you realise that to see it you stand on a noisy pavement opposite and that within seconds of arriving you are beset by the hawkers. Kind of destroys some of the mystery!

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