Simon with his customary grin demonstrating the upper bunk on the over-night sleeper (3 metre guage) train from Mathura to Lalkuan. Mathura is about an hour's drive from Agra. En route, in the dark, we had to circumvent the only serious traffic incident on our trip - a lorry laden with tyres lying on its side. We left Mathura at midnight and arrived at Lalkuan at about 9.00 am after a pretty decent night.

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